Box 3d print

Box 3d print DEFAULT

Sometimes, all what you need is a simple box with lid for your gift or to store your cookies. I designed one of this very simple but functional boxes, perfectly optimised for 3D printing.

The design has 4mm thick walls, which make it very robust and it will look great if you print it with transparent or translucent filament and a special infill.

Free Sample Box

There is a free sample box, you can download and use as you like.

These free files are licensed under the Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International license. Use them as you like, to test the quality of the objects and check if you can print them at your desired speeds.

Creative Commons Licence
The files in the free sets are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Complete Set

The complete set contains STL files for boxes in 12 different sizes. The following sizes are inside dimensions, you have to add 2×4mm for the wall thickness.

  • 8×8×5 cm
  • 8×8×8 cm
  • 10×10×6 cm
  • 10×10×10 cm
  • 12×12×7 cm
  • 12×12×12 cm
  • 15×15×9 cm
  • 15×15×15 cm
  • 18×18×11 cm
  • 18×18×18 cm
  • 20×20×12 cm
  • 20×20×20 cm

The License of the Sets in the Shop

You get these files in the shop under a different license. You will find the full text in the “license.txt” file inside of the package and linked in the shop. Basically, it consists of three parts:

  • You can use the files personally to do everything you like to print the boxes and grids.
  • You may use the prints (not the files) commercially. E.g. you can sell the printed boxes if you like.
  • You must not make me liable if these model files destroyed your printer or similar. 😄

Free Updates

Additionally, if you buy one of the sets, I will send you updates or extensions of a set for free.

Photos of a Real Print

The box in the following images was made on a Prusa i3 MK3s printer, using Prusament PETG Transparent, with 0.2mm layer height with the default slicer profile “0.2mm quality”.

Print Instructions

For each size, there is a pair of STL files. All file names start with the project number, followed by the size where stands for the approximate inside width and depth and for the inside height in cm. After this, you find the part number. for the body and for the lid.

Print these parts in the orientation shown in the following images:

For best results, use the following settings:

  • Filament: PETG or PLA
  • Nozzle: 0.4mm
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm or lower.

Conclusion

I hope you find this boxes useful and these well prepared models will save you some time. 😄

If you have any questions, missed information, or simply want to provide feedback, use the contact form or Twitter.

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Sours: https://luckyresistor.me/3d-printing/simple-box-with-lid-for-3d-print/

Could This Be The Best 3D Printer Enclosure?

A new startup is marketing an enclosure kit for small desktop 3D printers, including the popular Prusa models.

Printer Box is a French company that seems to have launched in mid-2020; they’re not even a year old yet. Their single product at this time is a 3D printer enclosure.

3D Printer Enclosure Concept

There’s plenty of good reasons for a 3D printer enclosure, not the least of which is that they create an ability to control the atmosphere around print operations. The temperature and airflow can both be controlled, and that can often lead to far greater print quality.

This is, of course, for “open format” 3D printers that are essentially mechanical gantries that are open to the air. These are inexpensive machines, but the lack of an enclosure can complicate thermal issues. Meanwhile, there are many more expensive 3D printers that do include built-in enclosures, and owners of those machines would likely not be interested in third-party enclosures.

There are a number of other functions that an enclosure can perform, including safety functions that are lacking on original equipment.

Speaking of “lacking”, this reminds me of perhaps the most popular method of creating an enclosure for small desktop 3D printers: the Lack approach.

This involves purchasing a couple of “Lack” end tables from your local IKEA, and pasting clear acrylic panels on the sides to form an enclosure. It sounds a bit crazy, but many people take this approach because it’s not expensive. And that gets you only an enclosure; you don’t get thermal control. In fact, heat in such an enclosure is only generated by stray heat from the print plate that’s being captured.

Existing 3D Printer Enclosures

For those who wish to purchase an enclosure there have been relatively few options available on the market. One that’s been around for many years is from 3DPrintClean, and a more recent system has been made by Kora.

Those are both excellent options, with the Kora in particular being outstanding at removing nanoparticles from the chamber. However, they are somewhat expensive, particularly for those using inexpensive desktop equipment. In some cases the cost of these enclosures could exceed the cost of the 3D printer.

Printer Box Enclosure

Enter Printer Box. Their system seems to offer the core functions of thermal control, airflow blockage and filtration. It seems that Printer Box is building products designed to match the dimensions of specific machines, and their first product is designed for the Prusa i3 MK3S and MK2.5S desktop 3D printers. It’s called the “Prusa-box”.

There are two main differences between the Prusa-box and the other two options. The first is that it’s supplied as a kit, rather than a fully-assembled unit. This also leads to the second difference: pricing. The Prusa-box is available for only US$224.48. That’s well below competitor price levels, and should be affordable by almost anyone. Note, however, that there are some parts you must 3D print yourself, as Printer Box provides STL files to do so.

But what exactly do you get with a Prusa-box? These are the functions provided:

  • Sealed chamber to prevent dust from landing on equipment or prints and accidental encounters
  • Thermal control for more reliable printing
  • Cooling vent for venting excess power supply heat
  • Spool positioning either outside the chamber or inside if pre-heating is desired
  • Access port on top for easier filament changing
  • Control panel to operate the 3D printer via a Raspberry Pi (not provided, it appears)
  • Active carbon and HEPA filter to remove VOCs and nanoparticles before they leave the chamber

There’s one more interesting twist to this enclosure: it can also handle the Prusa MMU2S, the multi-material attachment. Normally this system sits on top of the Prusa 3D printer, but Printer Box can accommodate it on top of the enclosure by using alternate parts that can be 3D printed.

The functionality of the Prusa-box looks quite good, although there’s a couple of functions missing that might be considered for a future product:

  • Automated fire extinguishing
  • Thermal runaway alarm
  • Thermal runaway automatic power cut

But perhaps those functions are part of the reason the alternative products are more expensive.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking for an inexpensive yet near-fully functional third party enclosure for your Prusa 3D printer, you might want to check out the new Printer Box product.

Via Printer Box

Sours: https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/could-this-be-the-best-3d-printer-enclosure
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These are storage boxes, perfectly optimised for 3D print on Prusa printers. They have the following features:

  • Optimal square raster 60x60mm.
  • Perfectly stackable.
  • Stabilising wall profiles for perfect results with PLA and PETG
  • Grid rails to securely hold them in a drawer.
  • Optimised for FFF: The boxes will print perfectly and are very stable with minimal material use.
  • Dual label system. You can place a label on the inside and outside, so it is always visible from all angles.
  • Three heights: Flat, regular and tall which can be stacked flush at the rim.
  • There are lids for the storage boxes, which can also be used as trays.

You can find even more details and sizes here:
https://luckyresistor.me/3d-printing/storage-boxes-system-for-3d-print/

Print instructions

The storage boxes can be printed using a 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle. For the best results:

  • 0.4mm nozzle.
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • Quality or speed profile.
  • Use Prusament PLA.

See the prepared .3mf files as a good starting point for the printer settings.

  • All storage boxes are printed with the flat bottom on the print bed.
  • The grids are printed with the flat bottom on the print bed.
  • The lids are printed with the flat bottom on the print bed.

Please note: Do not scale the models! The wall profiles are perfectly optimised to the regular nozzle sizes.

Tags


Sours: https://www.prusaprinters.org
How to customize a 3D Printed Box using PrusaSlicer

Sometimes, all what you need is a simple box with lid for your gift or to store your cookies. I designed one of this very simple but functional boxes, perfectly optimised for 3D printing.

The design has 4mm thick walls, which make it very robust and it will look great if you print it with transparent or translucent filament and a special infill.

Free Sample Box

There is a free sample box, you can download and use as you like.

These free files are licensed under the Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International license. Use them as you like, to test the quality of the objects and check if you can print them at your desired speeds.

Creative Commons Licence
The files in the free sets are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Complete Set

The complete set contains STL files for boxes in 12 different sizes. The following sizes are inside dimensions, you have to add 2×4mm for the wall thickness.

  • 8×8×5 cm
  • 8×8×8 cm
  • 10×10×6 cm
  • 10×10×10 cm
  • 12×12×7 cm
  • 12×12×12 cm
  • 15×15×9 cm
  • 15×15×15 cm
  • 18×18×11 cm
  • 18×18×18 cm
  • 20×20×12 cm
  • 20×20×20 cm

The License of the Sets in the Shop

You get these files in the shop under a different license. You will find the full text in the “license.txt” file inside of the package and linked in the shop. Basically, it consists of three parts:

  • You can use the files personally to do everything you like to print the boxes and grids.
  • You may use the prints (not the files) commercially. E.g. you can sell the printed boxes if you like.
  • You must not make me liable if these model files destroyed your printer or similar. 😄

Free Updates

Additionally, if you buy one of the sets, I will send you updates or extensions of a set for free.

Photos of a Real Print

The box in the following images was made on a Prusa i3 MK3s printer, using Prusament PETG Transparent, with 0.2mm layer height with the default slicer profile “0.2mm quality”.

Print Instructions

For each size, there is a pair of STL files. All file names start with the project number, followed by the size where stands for the approximate inside width and depth and for the inside height in cm. After this, you find the part number. for the body and for the lid.

Print these parts in the orientation shown in the following images:

For best results, use the following settings:

  • Filament: PETG or PLA
  • Nozzle: 0.4mm
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm or lower.

Conclusion

I hope you find this boxes useful and these well prepared models will save you some time. 😄

If you have any questions, missed information, or simply want to provide feedback, use the contact form or Twitter.

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Sours: https://luckyresistor.me/3d-printing/simple-box-with-lid-for-3d-print/

3d print box

Getting started with 3D modeling and 3D printing can seem like a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be. The easiest place to start is with a simple shape, like a box. Additionally, it can help to create something useful (or at least marginally useful) to act as motivation.

Making a 3D printed project enclosure

Downloading a part from Thingiverse and printing it is a good place to start, especially if you want to test your printer or want something awesome that someone else has made. But what if you're ready to start designing your own models? Where do you go? There are scores of 3D modeling programs out there, and some of them work better with 3D printing than others. Here are some of the ones I've had experience with:

  • Tinkercad - Free, web-based modeling software from Autodesk that's great for beginners. Great for making models for 3D printing, but is limited in features.
  • SketchUp - There is a free (now web-based) and a paid (Pro) version. Easy to learn and use, but has trouble producing 3D printer-friendly models.
  • Fusion 360 - Full-featured modeling software also from Autodesk that's free for students and hobbyists. Favored by many hobbyists.
  • SolidWorks - Full-featured CAD software that has a large professional following. Expensive.
  • Blender - Free and open-source modeling program with a steep learning curve.

If you are just getting started with modeling and printing, I highly recommend giving Tinkercad a shot. You can whip up simple designs in a matter of minutes. Do note that it is lacking some advanced features, like being able to add chamfers or fillets (you can technically subtract a round shape out of another shape and then use that to create a fillet on your design's corners, but it's a pain).

I've created a quick guide on getting started with Tinkercad. In it, I show how to design a box, import it into a slicer, and then print it. It's a great starting place, especially if you're looking to create custom enclosures for your electronics projects. That being said, it's meant as a starting point; putting just a Pro Mini is box is a fairly useless exercise. Feel free to modify the dimensions to fit your own project!

Also, the instructions for printing were written for a LulzBot TAZ 5 printer (now retired in favor of the TAZ 6), mostly because that's what I had access to. Most of the LulzBot printers should work similarly, but if you have a different printer, you'll want to follow that manufacturer's guidelines for which Slicer program to use and how to print.

For those of you out there with more 3D printing experience, what other modeling or troubleshooting tips can you recommend?


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